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How to Sew Patchwork Trousers - Using Scrap Fabrics to Make DIY Clothes
Kimberley Hind
Overview
This video demonstrates how to create unique patchwork trousers using scrap fabrics. It covers selecting and preparing fabric scraps, arranging them into larger panels, cutting these panels to fit a trouser pattern, sewing the panels together, and assembling the trousers. The process includes creating a two-toned patchwork waistband and inserting elastic for a comfortable fit. The tutorial emphasizes creative freedom in fabric selection and arrangement, resulting in one-of-a-kind garments.
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Chapters
- Gather fabric scraps, focusing on prints you love, and press them to make cutting easier.
- Cut preferred fabrics into uniform sizes (e.g., 5-inch squares) or use a variety of sizes for a more handmade look.
- Utilize larger pieces of fabric (like fat quarters or specific yardage) to fill gaps or create larger uniform areas.
- Consider a two-tone color scheme (e.g., yellow and green) or a completely random mix of colors and patterns based on your stash.
Properly preparing and selecting fabrics ensures you have a good variety and quantity to work with, making the patchwork process smoother and more enjoyable.
Using 5-inch squares of favorite prints like mushrooms, daisies, and chickens, alongside larger pieces of yellow spot fabric and floral scraps, to begin creating the patchwork panels.
- Arrange fabric pieces into larger rectangular blocks, keeping favorite prints towards the center to avoid losing them during trimming.
- Ensure the patchwork piece is slightly larger than the trouser pattern piece to account for seam allowances and prevent the final garment from being too small.
- Work with straight lines when arranging pieces to make sewing easier and ensure a good fit with the pattern.
- Fill any gaps between larger pieces with smaller scraps or coordinating fabrics to create a cohesive panel.
Over-sizing the patchwork panels ensures you have enough fabric to cut the pattern pieces accurately, while strategic arrangement maximizes the visual appeal of your chosen prints.
Arranging various fabric squares and strips into a large rectangle, then placing the trouser pattern piece on top and cutting around it, leaving extra fabric for seams.
- Sew fabric pieces together in strips or blocks, working with right sides facing each other.
- Use an overlocker (serger) for neat, finished seams that won't fray, especially if not lining the trousers.
- Maintain straight sewing lines to ensure the final patchwork panel is flat and easy to work with.
- Trim excess fabric and uneven edges to create clean lines for subsequent sewing steps.
Accurate sewing of the patchwork pieces creates a stable and visually appealing fabric panel, which is crucial for the overall structure and look of the trousers.
Sewing several fabric squares together to form a strip, then attaching that strip to another piece, continuing until a large, cohesive patchwork panel is formed.
- Cut out the front and back trouser pieces from the completed patchwork panels, ensuring they are mirror images for the front pieces.
- Sew the side seams and inseams of the trousers with right sides together.
- Finish the bottom hem using a rolled hem on the overlocker, especially if the pattern runs short.
- Construct a two-toned patchwork waistband by sewing coordinating fabric strips together.
Properly assembling the garment pieces ensures the trousers fit correctly and are constructed durably, while the patchwork waistband adds a unique design element.
Sewing the inseam of one trouser leg, then turning it right-side out and repeating for the other leg before joining them at the crotch.
- Create a loop from the patchwork waistband fabric by sewing its short ends together.
- Attach the waistband to the top of the trousers, right sides together, leaving a small gap for elastic insertion.
- Thread elastic through the waistband casing using a safety pin, ensuring it doesn't twist.
- Sew the elastic ends together, adjust for fit, and then close the gap in the waistband.
- Topstitch the waistband edges to secure the elastic and provide a clean finish.
Finishing techniques like inserting elastic and topstitching create a comfortable, functional, and professionally-looking waistband that completes the garment.
Measuring elastic to fit the waist, threading it through the waistband casing with a safety pin, sewing the elastic ends, and then topstitching the waistband edges.
Key takeaways
- Scrap fabric can be creatively repurposed into unique, wearable art by planning and assembling patchwork panels.
- Making patchwork panels larger than the final pattern piece is essential to accommodate seam allowances and trimming.
- Consistent straight lines when sewing patchwork pieces are key to achieving a flat, well-fitting garment.
- Using an overlocker provides durable, fray-resistant seams, ideal for unlined garments.
- Mirror imaging pattern pieces for the front of trousers ensures they will fit together correctly.
- A patchwork waistband can be constructed similarly to the main fabric panels, adding a cohesive design element.
- Topstitching around the waistband not only secures the elastic but also provides a polished, professional finish.
Key terms
PatchworkScrap fabricsFat quartersSeam allowanceOverlocker (Serger)Pattern pieceWaistbandElastic casingRolled hemTopstitching
Test your understanding
- Why is it important to make patchwork panels larger than the final pattern piece?
- How can you ensure your patchwork seams are neat and durable, especially in an unlined garment?
- What steps are involved in creating a patchwork waistband that matches the trousers?
- How does the process of creating the front trouser panels differ from the back panels?
- What is the purpose of topstitching the waistband after inserting the elastic?